My personal thoughts on K series vs B series in a fiat X19.
Quick hit. K series is the best….. If you have the cash. B series is “good enough” if you are under a budget.
Stock Power
B series honda engine and trans can run you from $500 up to $4000+. The b20 is cheap. REAL cheap and only about 130 HP stock. you can run around 200hp stock by getting the b18c type R. The K series you will run 163hp to 221hp stock. a quick look at ebay puts these starting out about $3000. with the hight HP going 4-5000.
more power!
why write what has already bee written. http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/honda-b-vs-k-series-right-build/
Quick synopsis: Normally aspirated, the K kicks ass. Boosted, the B catches up and some say surpasses the K. If you want torque (any torque) the B series is not your friend. they are much higher revving engines that dont turn on any real power until upwards of 5k. Stock internals can easily hold 10k RPM, but you will need to get parts, and a tune to get power at that RPM, but it can hold it. Add a few more go fast goodies and it can hold it as a daily driver.
The Swap itself.
The K series is pretty straight forward. IF you buy midwest bayless Kit. There are a few cuts you have to make and they give you the templates to do so. you have to weld up a small box as well. It is a pretty painless affair. from the quick look at the kit you will still need to get the shafts and fuel pump. if you are carburated, you will have to figure out how to get fuel from the bottom of the tank as fuel injection pumps push, they dont pull well .
The B series, there is no “kit” for it as it really doesn’t need one. Basically, you need to make 2 cuts. one small one in the frame rail above the end of the trans. about 1.5 inch by 4 inches. (then boxed out to re-add strength) and one small cut in the drivers side strut tower to allow the honda engine mount to stick about 1 inch in. 2 mounts will have to be created to hold the honda mounts. one on the trans (passenger) side, and one one the engine (drivers) side. I used 3×3 steel square tube with sides cut to fix.
Another BIG issues I had was with shift linkage. people have used the rod linkage with god results. I did not have those good results. I converted mine to cable. I used a porsche shifter ($100) but since then, using the shifter in the K series from Midwest would have been much better and easier.
My personal total cost for the b16 swap itself, not including issues I had with the engine.
Engine/trans (in running car) 1700
custom shafts 800
shifter 100
shift cables 150
fuel pump 100
mounts 200
I chose the B because of the affordable nature as well as there wasnt a kit for the K series yet. I also love the high revving nature of the b16. reminds me of the Fiat engine. Some people say that with the engine on the drivers side upsets the balance. I dont think this is possible. for one big one. there ARE x19’s that have the driver sitting in front of the stock X19. they would be complaining if there were issues with weight.
all and all. if you can afford the K, DO IT. period. no debate. if you cant, than the B series might be for you